My 1969 Dodge Charger Heidts Suspension Swap Project Is Finally Complete. It’s a Game Changer

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Made from 1968 to 1970, the second-generation Dodge Charger has a lot going for it. The styling is the best in the world (in my opinion). It came with performance drivelines to match, with the 426 Hemi and 440 Six-Packs crammed under the hoods of R/T models. Handling was never its strong suit, though. Even the magnificent Daytonas that were missiles on wheels struggled to keep up with more agile platforms on shorter tracks where all-out-top-end performance wasn’t the chief concern. 

As much as I can appreciate shortcomings being a part of the experience, I’ve always been turned on by the idea of making things work in ways they’re not supposed to. That element, which draws me to using a field-rescued ’69 Charger as a bang-around-everyday-driver in the first place, fueled my need to build one into a solid handler.

1969 Dodge Charger Heidts Suspension swaps road test.
Hank O’Hop

If you’ve been following the build of my 1969 Dodge Charger this year, you know I’ve spent months working with Heidts Hot Rod and Muscle Car Parts to make that happen. We totally overhauled the car’s front and rear suspension systems in favor of new IFS and IRS setups that promise dramatic improvements in handling and ride quality. In an effort to produce the most honest and in-depth review possible, I’ve taken readers every step of the way. It’s been a lot of hard work, but after getting a ton of wheel time in, I’m stoked to say my dream of owning a rough and ready ‘69 Charger that actually handles well is now a reality. 

For easy reference, here are the kits on Heidts’ website:

The Starting Point 

Before we get into the review of the Heidts suspension systems, let’s revisit the baseline. Now’s also a good time to once again remind you that instrumented test results aren’t on the menu today. I tried but was quoted $800 per day by the local autocross club. So we just have to go by regular ol’ road testing for now. 

As I mentioned back in part one, my goal is to relay the impacts of either upgrade on the car as their own short reviews. That way, someone who may be considering them will have an idea of what they should pursue for their own car. 

1969 Dodge Charger and 1968 Dodge Charger Heidts Suspension swaps road test.
Hank O’Hop

That said, the car wasn’t exactly a bone-stock Charger prior to this. It lives on Pennsylvania backroads, and I had previously outfitted it with some handling and steering modifications to help it embrace the lifestyle. It still had recirculating ball steering but in a gearbox with an improved steering ratio. I paired it with extended steering arms from Hotchkis to tighten the ratio even more and implored the pump-it-down mod to up road feel. I also threw the regular bolt-ons at it; it was equipped with QA1 upper and lower tubular control arms and strut rods along with front and rear sway bars. It had factory torsion bars on the front, XHD leaf springs at the rear—which are modeled after factory R/T springs—and KYB shocks on all four corners. 

All in all, this combination was OK. It got around decently well, and it did handle a bit better than the stock ’68 Charger I reviewed. The upgrades definitely gave the car an edge beyond a straight line, but not so much so that it felt like an entirely different machine. The steering still had plenty of slop in it. It wasn’t horribly uncomfortable, but the right road conditions could cause you and your passengers to suddenly switch seats. I could dart around corners and have a ton of fun doing it if I accounted for the body roll and oversteer. But oncoming traffic in the opposite lane would definitely get the nerves going in tight spots.

Since installing all the Heidts parts, I’ve driven all of the same roads I tore up with that configuration and then some. I’ve also had the chance to drive that stock ‘68 again, which has helped keep my memory of the old setup sharp. 

1969 Dodge Charger Heidts Suspension swaps road test.
Hank O’Hop

Since the very start, I was skeptical of ditching the original leaf springs for Heidts’ 4-link rear end. I knew it’d improve ride quality and handling, but the claims of eliminating wheel hop didn’t quite sit well with me. To put it briefly, these old Mopars had a couple of built-in workarounds to avoid the issue anyway. Regardless, I’m stoked to say the 4-link is an all-around performer. So much so that if I had to recommend one Heidts kit over the other, this would get my vote.

Shortly after installing the Heidts 4-link, I hit the highway for a short road trip. A buddy and I headed out to Maple Grove Raceway to hang out with a fellow Charger nut, Mike Musto, for Musclepalooza put on by Hemmings. In true Pennsylvania fashion, the road to our destination was anything but straightforward. Only about half of it is a haul down the interstate. The other half was a trek split between old sketchy highways that run through the hills, followed by coiled small-town roads that cut across farm fields and the middle of nowhere. It was the perfect way to get a feel for the car. 

1969 Dodge Charger and 1970 Chevelle Heidts Suspension swaps road test.
Hank O’Hop

It was immediately apparent that the 4-link is dramatically better for the type of driving this car sees. Body roll felt less dramatic with the risk of oversteer a bit further out of reach, even without a rear sway bar. Ride quality saw its share of improvements, too. And while I’m not exactly pushing it to the limits on a road course, I’m able to navigate around winding mountains with more confidence.

The interesting part is that the adjustments were all out of whack during this road trip. The shocks were way too stiff, the ride height was way too high, and the pinion angle was a bit cocked. Putting it all in spec magnified the impact immensely. It really felt like a totally different car afterward.

That’s exactly what I love so much about this kit. The lack of adjustability at the rear was a big limiting factor. While the front end uses torsion bars that let you play with ride height, the fixed rear springs kept me from reaping the full rewards of my efforts made working on the front of the car. A set of lowering springs or blocks is certainly far more affordable, simple, and viable for most project car owners, but the ability to fine-tune everything at the back of the car is hard not to appreciate.

As far as wheel hop goes, I did experience it just after the initial installation when my pinion angle was out of whack. Now that it’s in check, I have yet to run into it. Now, maybe I don’t have enough power on street tires to encounter it anyway, but my skepticism was seemingly ill-placed.

On the return journey from Maple Grove, the car handled so well that I didn’t even want to tear into the front end. I remember thinking over how much better the car would be with some simple tweaks to the factory setup, like taking the slop out of the factory steering shaft. Then, like a divine slap upside the head, a leaky oil pan put me on a tow truck just five miles from home. And with the Heidts Pro-G IFS forcing me to put a new one on anyway, it was time to dive in. 

1969 Dodge Charger Heidts Suspension swaps road test.
Hank O’Hop

Pro-G IFS Road Test

The Pro-G IFS essentially grabbed me and quoted the late Paul Walker during the installation, “You know what they say, if you want the career-changing big fish, you gotta be willing to put on the big boy panties and sail out to the deep water.” It then proceeded to kick my ass. 

This kit put all of my skills and patience to the test. But the minute the car hit the road, I knew every drop of blood, sweat, and tears was well spent. 

I’ve put thousands of miles on the Pro-G IFS since installing it. It’s been road-tripped to the Carlisle Chrysler Nationals, I’ve driven around every windy road I know, and it’s even taken the car well into triple digits—in Mexico, of course. I’ve felt the benefits of this upgrade throughout every last mile of it. 

While you’ll never get around the fact that you’re driving a 17-foot-long machine, with a solid rear axle in this case, Heidts’ kit really worked wonders. And that’s because it makes upgrades to virtually everything in the front end of the car. The key points are that it improves front-end geometry, converts to rack and pinion power steering, and shifts the engine rearward for improved balance. Stacked with the 4-link at the rear, I’m left with an entirely new car that’s got comfort and performance to rival a modern machine. 

1969 Dodge Charger Heidts Suspension swaps road test.
Hank O’Hop

The steering is tight and smooth under all conditions. Even with multiple universal joints on the shaft, the slack or lack thereof is much better than that of the factory coupler. The steering is surprisingly light. The kit reuses the factory power steering pump, and I half expected it’d be much firmer feeling and that I’d have to undo the prior pump modifications. It feels exactly the same, though. That in itself is cool because it keeps the feeling of driving a ‘69 Charger alive, despite the major changes. 

I’m not surprised that the car corners better and rides nicer, particularly at lower speeds. I was surprised to feel the differences at higher speeds, though. Before, the front wheels got light north of 80 mph. With the Pro-G in place, the car’s consistently planted through to the top-end limits. Now this could be more so due to the fact that ride height is lower, but it’s still an improvement that’s made it far more enjoyable to drive. 

The shocks are currently set just one notch above the softest setting for normal driving. It’s not so soft that you feel like you’re riding your sofa down the highway, but being flung around the cabin by a pothole is no longer a risk. I also love that I can change that at a moment’s notice with everything being full adjustable. 

Now, I know you sign up for all of the drama when you jump into a car like this. It’s part of what makes driving a muscle car so special. The thing is, the Charger hasn’t lost its soul. It still feels very much like a muscle car and you can send that ass around with the flick of your wrist. However, its inherent nature now feels like something you can command, not just something you account for. It’s lighter on its feet, and far more dexterous, but still a coiled snake that can strike at any moment, especially with the torquey 440 under the hood. 

I won’t say the Pro-G IFS puts the Charger on pace with a smaller sports car. It is a far more nimble machine than it’s ever been, though, and it’s made the car an absolute dream to bomb around with. I’ve had a few lifelong muscle car nuts take rides with me, including multiple Charger owners. All are thoroughly impressed with the blend of performance and comfort these systems have delivered. 

The Verdict: Totally Worth It… If You’re Up for the Challenge

As far as performance goes, there’s not a single element of these upgrades that I don’t like. The results are exactly what I’ve always wanted for my Charger. It was a ton of work, but I couldn’t be happier with the end results. The only thing the car can benefit from in this department is stiffening the chassis up. The suspension is about as far as I’d ever want to take it.

Outside of just performance and ride quality, there were elements of these kits I was concerned with. My biggest fear going into this is that they’d compromise ground clearance after experiences with a tubular K-member that hung way too low. That’s not the case here. Everything tucks neatly up to the chassis, far away from potential threats on the roadways. I can still drive the car exactly how I want to.

1969 Dodge Charger Heidts Suspension swaps road test.
Hank O’Hop

The other thing I was most concerned about was the impact on weight. I weighed the car before and after each modification with a 1/4-tank of gas. Starting weight was 3,470 pounds, it dropped to 3,430 pounds with the 4-link, and finally, to 3,420 pounds with the Pro-G IFS. I’ll take the win. 

Is it all worth it, though? The price of both kits here is north of $10,000. By the time you factor in brakes, custom headers, and installation fees, if you’re not doing the work yourself, you can easily be talking about a $15,000 set of upgrades. Probably more. 

That’s a ton of cash and there are a lot of cost-effective ways to make the stock setup work. Still, you are getting radical changes for the money. The car is worlds apart from its former self. If you want serious performance gains without the homework and have a big budget to work with, this is a pretty stellar way to go. I am still itching to see real-world numbers, though. I also happen to have enough leftover parts to put another B-body together in a hurry with stock-type parts. Perhaps the opportunity to get some real data to go by is closer in reach than I think.